Tuesday 23 July 2013

The Maligne River tour

Just east of Jasper the Maligne River empties into the Athabasca River.  Not that exciting, but the drive south on Maligne Lake Road from this point to Maligne Lake, near the headwaters of the river is rather interesting.  A few kilometers down the road brings you to Maligne Canyon, where the river plunges down and through a very deep gorge; over 38 meters down in places.  The sign at the entrance to the trail speculates how exactly this gorge was created.  All I know is that it is impressive, and a bit scary (Lily definitely found it scary at first).  
One of the "shallower" spots in the canyon - still a long way down
We all (us, Bob’s parents & his brother and family) hiked along the canyon trail to the fourth bridge.  By that point, the kids were ready to turn around (me too). The walk was in total probably an hour.
We regrouped, fed the kids some snacks and continued on.  The road follows the river upstream, until the river disappears – literally.  One glimpse of the river shows a typical rushing mountain stream, the next time you see the river bed it is dry.  Somewhere along those few kilometers of tree lined road the river goes underground.  I guess there is a massive complex of underground limestone caves in the area which the water flows through.  It’s weird to see the dry river bed and wonder where the water is at that point. This empty riverbed continues for a couple kilometers until you come to Medicine Lake, a lovely blue-green lake with an impressive mountain range to the east of it.  This lake is where the river goes underground, making it a very unique lake.  It has a source, but no obvious outlet. And it actually drains away in the winter!
Driving past the lake, we continued on beside the (now reappeared) river until we reached Maligne Lake.  This lake both deep (97 m) and long (22 km).  Big lake!  And very pretty.  Glass-bottomed boat tours are offered hourly; unfortunately the next one was sold out when we arrived and we didn't want to wait 90 min to get on the next 90 min tour.  So we rented boats!  Hmm, do I hear a groan?
 
 Well, Bob & the kids rented themselves a rowboat.  I got a single person kayak.  I think I’m in love.  There was something so cathartic about being out in the kayak, slicing through the water or just sitting still.   After soaking in some “me” time, I turned around (I think I could have kept paddling until I covered that whole 22 km) and joined the family.  They hadn't gone nearly as far – Bob’s specialty being rowing in circles.  Or maybe that’s Morgan’s specialty.  I asked him what he did today.  His words were “I went to a lake and went on a rowboat.  It was pretty good.  I liked rowing.”
hamming it up for the camera


After the boats were returned, the kids and Sarah played in the cold lake and then we headed back to the campsite.  After supper we took the bikes down the campground trail to the showers and main playground before (trying to) get to bed early.  Lily is learning how to ride without training wheels!  She’s still a bit wobbly and unsure of herself, but she is doing a fantastic job.  Tomorrow is our last full day here. We are going to see Mt. Edith Cavell and Angel Glacier, a place I remember from when I visited Jasper as a kid.  I wonder how different it will be.    

My favorite view from the kayak

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