Eastern Canadian scenery

What we've seen so far of Eastern Canada is beautiful. Maybe it’s partly the fact that everything is green, the flowers are blooming, and the weather is mild enough that I can believe summer is coming, but it’s also that there is a natural beauty here that hasn't been erased by urbanity.

 Quebec, east from Montreal to Riviere du Loup, is a mixture of rolling farmland, and trees, with plenty of small rivers, and the St. Lawrence River, widening as it heads eastward until it resembles a small ocean (and then becomes a part of it). The scenery is dotted with farms notable by their silos, and towns, identifiable even through the trees by their church steeple. At first glance it appears that much of the land has been tamed by human hands, but it doesn't take much looking to find natural wilderness.

For example, the walking trail from our campground took us on a one kilometer loop through the woods, down to a lovely little creek, where the kids found slugs to examine and sticks to beat on each other with. It felt like we could be in the middle of nowhere – except I could still hear the highway traffic.

Turning right at Riviere du Loup, the scenery changes rather abruptly as you climb in elevation, away from the St. Lawrence. The farms disappear, giving way to forest as Quebec gives way to New Brunswick. The highway travels through land that reminiscent of northern Alberta or BC, full of trees & rocks and very alpine feeling. High chain link fences on the edge of the highway (just like the ones in Banff National Park) and plenty of Moose signs added to the similarity. I kept looking at the horizon, expecting to see mountains. But instead of those towering behemoths, there were low hills covered in more trees. 

Occasionally the trees would part briefly and a sparkling river or lake would flash by. The land here is full of running water, and eventually the highway tracks along another widening river – the St. John. The river heads south, and so the highway travels between it and the border of Maine for quite a ways before the river and it turn east, towards the coast. Much of the drive, the land appeared to be empty of people, but they are just hidden by the sea of trees. Communities would rise up from the forest, only to be hidden again in a curtain of green.

The St. John River carves the land in this area of New Brunswick, and we took a brief stop to enjoy the waterfalls at Grand Falls, and then camp along the shores of the widening river. At Woodstock (the oldest town in NB), the river is calm and wide. The hills on either side of the river are full of acreages, flowering trees and green expanses (and more trees, of course); all in all, a very serene place to just sit and absorb the scenery. Continuing towards the coast (on hwy 7), the densely treed landscape slowly slopes down to the ocean, and the highway and river part ways for a while. And then, all of a sudden the river is back; just before the expanse of the Bay of Fundy appears. 

Wow. 

Time to explore...

Avoidance

For months now, as I've been writing we were here, we did this posts I've been avoiding the big issues.
I can't escape them, though. No matter how hard I want to. My family reminds me every time I talk with them. The other RVing families remind me every time I hear about their travel plans. Perfect strangers remind me with their questions. 

What's the plan?

Meaning the future. Our future.

Where are we going to end up? What is our timeline? What are our future plans? 

When we set out, the plan was to be gone for a year, and then be back in Alberta again in time to put the kids back into public school. We'd get jobs & return to a sedentary lifestyle.

Now that the summer is getting closer, and August isn't so far away, that cut and dry scenario isn't so clear anymore. In fact, it's really, really murky.

To settle down again, or to keep traveling, or perhaps to travel part time?  
These are the questions (which spawn more questions).
To which I have no real answers.
Yet.

There are many things to consider, and some of them are complicated - at least to me - what we want for the future, what's best for schooling the kids, money & jobs, and where do we want to end up.
The clock is ticking. The hammer is poised. 

My head is like a little hamster wheel, with thoughts chasing themselves around and around and around, getting no where fast. I've tied myself up in knots. It feels impossible right now.

It can't be avoided for much longer.
Tick-tock.
Sigh.

Regardless of whether we choose to keep traveling or settle down we do have to return to Alberta by fall - and spend some time there to take care of a variety of things that can only be done in person. But, as for the rest of it... well, decisions will have to be made soon!

Montreal: part three

Our final trip into Montreal, we visited the Old Port to explore the old city, which sits along the St. Lawrence River. We parked in a lot outside the old city, right near a portion of the original city wall and walked into history (narrow 18th century streets are no place for our truck). The cobblestone streets, open air cafes and old multi-storied buildings were only blocks away from modern buildings, but also a world unto themselves.

We took the kids to the Science Center for a bit, but they liked playing on the giant molecule at the front entrance the best. It was too nice a day to be inside anyway!








Bonsecours Market & the Chapel behind us
We walked around the old streets for a while, taking in the sights. Our walking took us into the Notre-Dame de Bon Secours Chapel, one of the oldest churches in Montreal (built in 1771). We usually avoid entering anywhere that requires absolute quiet from the kids – it’s just not that easy for them – but we went in anyway. It was beautiful, and peaceful inside, and my children seemed to understand that quiet was absolutely necessary, even if they could only contain their usual loud exuberance for just a few minutes. It was enough, and the questions they asked during & afterward were very thoughtful.


The playground, down by the waterfront was much more up their alley, and we let them run their wiggles out before continuing our exploration. Bob found ice cream and then led us to the birthplace of Montreal.










The museum was closed by then, but we were able to read the plaque and look at the monument. (Which is kind of neat, as not many cities can actually pinpoint their birthplace; these locations tend to get absorbed into modernization.)

By that point everyone was pretty walked out, and we headed to the truck, passing by the massive (and dazzling) Notre-Dame Basillica of Montreal along the way. And then we said goodbye to Montreal. Bye, Montreal!

Montreal: part two

Our next trip into the city was school oriented. Morgan’s final science unit is all about Invertebrates (mainly bugs), and Montreal is home to the largest insect museum in North America, the Insectarium. They have lots of live specimens (scorpions, spiders, millipedes, walking sticks & other creepy crawlies) and plenty of informative displays. 

The ant colony was really neat to watch as the ants crossed a bridge to cut leaves and then came back across to the colony with the leaf bits. I always thought leaf-cutter ants ate the leaves, but they actually mulch it all up to give to a fungus they cultivate and eat. Cool. And weird. I tried to get a pic, but they all came out blurry :( 

When we tired of the bugs, we went outside to the Botanical Gardens. (Tickets to the Insectarium include access to the Botanical Garden grounds.) Forget the bugs – this was my happy place! The gardens are expansive and we only saw a portion. Even this early in the season they were absolutely beautiful. The grounds are split up into many different garden types, each with its own personality and feel. We walked through the Chinese Garden, the Japanese Garden (where we saw tadpoles & a snail), the First Nations Garden (felt just like a forest), 

 the Flowery Brook & Lilac Garden (We saw a mother duck and her 11 ducklings

and communed with a turtle,

all while breathing in the delicious scent of lilacs),











and the Alpine Garden (Now this is an alpine garden! I had a small one at my house, but there’s nothing like a grand scale to really bring some verisimilitude to the project. It was so realistic, foxes were even playing along the path.). The end of the day came too soon, and we said goodbye to the pretty flowers (and bugs).

A week in Montreal: part one

During our week here we mixed old with new, culture with nature, learning with fun, and a visit with old friends (new to me). Bob has been here many times for conferences, but coming for work and coming for your own exploration are totally different experiences.

Our first foray onto the island of Montreal saw us heading to downtown to replace the kids’ busted IPad at the Apple Store (hooray for warranties).Other than the one-way streets that are a usual part of many city centers, driving wasn't a problem. Finding a parking spot for the truck, however, was. Forty minutes, and one missed appointment later, we finally got the bright idea to ask at the Visitor Info center. Success! (Note: the parkade across the street from the Visitor Info Center does valet parking. Even for big dually’s!) But our delayed start meant we were all a bit fed up with downtown & only explored Rue St. Catherine a little bit (the Chapter’s is fantastic though). We still managed to leave right in the thick of rush hour traffic!

The day finished up better with a visit to the house of a former co-worker of Bob’s for a wonderful home-cooked Italian meal. Good food and good conversation is always a great way to end the day, and I left feeling (once again) awed by the hospitality of Bob’s work friends. These visits are quite an eye opener for me, as I always learn new & interesting things about Bob's former work life.

Campground ramblings

After visiting Upper Canada Village, we headed into Quebec. True to form, we didn't know where we’d spend the night – or preferably, the next week. We assumed that we’d be able to stop at the Tourist Info Center that would inevitably be a short way across the provincial border, and pick up a camping guide. (The Quebec Camping Guide encompasses all of the campgrounds in the province, and provides each with a rating based on amenities. Books like this are immensely helpful when trying to figure out where to go, and don’t have unlimited data (or occasionally a cell signal at all) to look up campgrounds. We still use printed guides a lot.)

As fate would have it, we arrived an hour after the Center had closed, and there were no brochures outside. Google Maps to the rescue! This has been an invaluable app on our phones (regardless of whether we have printed guides or not). Punch in “campgrounds” (or whatever else I’m looking for) in its search bar, and up they pop. (Another app I use is RV Parky, although less often, as it isn't all encompassing.) Based on good reviews we chose to call Camping la Cle des Champs, south of Montreal. They had one spot available for the week, and we took it. The travelers section was almost empty when we arrived on Mon evening, but by Friday night it was full of weekenders, and that single spot availability made sense. 

I don’t usually review our campgrounds, but I liked this one very much. The site was level (you seriously have no idea how important this is until you have traveled for a while!), and had a stone patio on which sat a swing and real patio set. Oooh. First time I've encountered this, and boy was it nice! In front of our patio was a fireplace made of stone “logs” that fit together. We didn't build a fire in it, but it was the perfect size to fit our barbecue on the top.

The kids loved the swing, and Morgan did his school work while rocking back & forth.  Lily also rocked her dollies to sleep nearly every day (these two activities did not work well together!). The ever present distraction at the back of the site – the frogs in the channel – provided entertainment & learning opportunities, and also sang us to sleep at night. The kids enjoyed the playground and splash pad, which despite delivering icy cold water, still attracted children like moths to a flame.

The staff were all very friendly and the internet was solid (You know, I think a campground could be a total disaster, but if they had strong WiFi, all would be good in my books. Sad, yes, I know… I could write lots about WiFi, but I’ll save further comments for another post…). It had a library, a hall, games, a heated pool, and it was peaceful & quiet at night. (-Except for the frogs - Trust me, being in a noisy environment does not lend to restful nights. RV walls are paper thin!) The total package was pretty nice, and if I was looking for a seasonal spot (as so many people in Canada – or at least this part of it do), I would pick a place like this.

Writing about this particular campground has got me thinking a bit… As we've traveled, I think we've experienced nearly every type of camp spot there is to be found. From boondocking in remote locations to staying in fancy RV Resorts with pools, activities, etc., and most everything in between, we've done them. Each type has its benefits and drawbacks, and one type isn't necessarily better than another. (It’s all about what we’re looking for at that moment in time, and that changes as we move around.)

Sometimes it’s the campground that makes a place memorable to us, and sometimes it’s just a spot to sleep. But so many of our reminiscences start with “Hey, do you remember the place where we…?”  that the campsite is irrevocably linked with the experience. Regardless, it’s always the places that make me feel at home that stick best in my mind, because, for however long we are there, these places truly are our home.  And hey, who doesn't want home to make you happy?

(I  feel extra lucky that I always have my home with me as I travel to my new home and the homes I leave behind leave a mark in my heart. And for those places that don't feel like home, we can just move on and find somewhere that's a better fit.) Ah, what a life!

Back to the 1860’s: Upper Canada Village

The year: 1866. Upper Canada and Lower Canada hadn't yet been joined to create the beginnings of the country I call home.  Life was just a little bit different than it is now; harder, in so many ways, and yet simpler, too. It’s difficult to really contemplate what life was like back then.  For the settlers, the tradesmen and businessmen, and for the soldiers who were defending the region. But, in one recreated village, in Morrisburg, Ontario, you can. 

Sister site to Fort Henry, Upper Canada Village does a fantastic job of really bringing the time period to life. The village consists of some 50+ period buildings, transplanted from a variety of sites in the region. This is also a living history museum, with working trades. The people here are really working – cutting lumber, milking cattle, planting gardens, caring for horses & livestock, making cheese, and fabric. It’s very interesting.

The water powered sawmill was busily cutting through a large log when we arrived.  It was very neat to watch. 

Piles of sawn wood stacked neatly outside the mill attested to the fact that this mill does actually make lumber. The fellow working in the mill told me that it’s used in the village to repair structures, build fences, and anywhere else it’s needed. 

We arrived on a day where several school groups (junior high/ high school, I’d guess) were also in attendance, and so there were extra activities and demonstrations in the fairground.  

At one of these, Lily was recruited into the army. No one came to collect her, though, so we kept her.

Her skills as a dairy maid may come in handy some day!

She even got to feed the calf the milk she collected.

Sure, the cows were nice, but these guys were cuter.

Outside the church & pastor's house

The Pastor's house was built in simple German lines, which reminded me strongly of my Grandma B.

Inside

Not sure exactly why, since I don’t think her house ever looked like this.  

Morgan & Bob went up the watchtower for great views of the village.

 The kids were both very attentive at school, and each got a merit card; Morgan, for helping clean up the school house, and Lily for her very thoughtful answer as to why the desks are built into the walls (for the light!).

The website suggests three to four hours for a visit, but we were there five, and I wish we would have had just a bit longer, as we rushed through the last street & missed some of the buildings. 

I also wish we would have taken more pictures of the various buildings and activities. On the upside, though, their website has a ton of information about the buildings, what people did for a living, and some of the history. I've been looking at it, since our visit, and have learned so much more.  

As with Fort Henry, if you ever find yourself in the area, I definitely recommend a visit. 

A bit of extra trivia learned during our visit:

Tavern in the background

$3.50 would get you room & board for a week at the Cook’s Tavern & Livery.

At the tin maker’s we learned that if he wanted to go to Ottawa to sell his goods, it would take him three days to get there (a 90 minute trip, nowadays).

At the cheese factory, in their modern (1860’s modern, that is) vats, 900 lbs of milk is turned into a 90 lb wheel of cheddar. Most of this cheese would be sold into the US.