What we've seen so far of Eastern Canada is beautiful. Maybe
it’s partly the fact that everything is green, the flowers are blooming, and
the weather is mild enough that I can believe summer is coming, but it’s also
that there is a natural beauty here that hasn't been erased by urbanity.
Quebec, east from
Montreal to Riviere du Loup, is a mixture of rolling farmland, and trees, with
plenty of small rivers, and the St. Lawrence River, widening as it heads eastward
until it resembles a small ocean (and then becomes a part of it). The scenery
is dotted with farms notable by their silos, and towns, identifiable even through the trees by their church steeple. At first glance it appears that much of the land has
been tamed by human hands, but it doesn't take much looking to find natural
wilderness.
For example, the walking trail from our campground took us on a
one kilometer loop through the woods, down to a lovely little creek, where the
kids found slugs to examine and sticks to beat on each other with. It felt like
we could be in the middle of nowhere – except I could still hear the highway
traffic.
Turning right at Riviere du Loup, the scenery changes rather
abruptly as you climb in elevation, away from the St. Lawrence. The farms
disappear, giving way to forest as Quebec gives way to New Brunswick. The highway travels through land that reminiscent
of northern Alberta or BC, full of trees & rocks and very alpine feeling. High chain link fences on the edge of the
highway (just like the ones in Banff National Park) and plenty of Moose signs
added to the similarity. I kept looking
at the horizon, expecting to see mountains. But instead of those towering behemoths,
there were low hills covered in more trees.
Occasionally the trees would part
briefly and a sparkling river or lake would flash by. The land here is full of running water, and eventually the highway tracks along another widening river –
the St. John. The river heads south, and so the highway travels between it and
the border of Maine for quite a ways before the river and it turn east, towards
the coast. Much of the drive, the land appeared to be empty of people, but they
are just hidden by the sea of trees. Communities would rise up from the forest,
only to be hidden again in a curtain of green.
The St. John River carves the land in this area of New
Brunswick, and we took a brief stop to enjoy the waterfalls at Grand Falls, and
then camp along the shores of the widening river. At Woodstock (the oldest town
in NB), the river is calm and wide. The
hills on either side of the river are full of acreages, flowering trees and green
expanses (and more trees, of course); all in all, a very serene place to just
sit and absorb the scenery. Continuing towards the coast (on hwy 7), the densely treed
landscape slowly slopes down to the ocean, and the highway and river part ways
for a while. And then, all of a sudden the river is back; just before the expanse of the Bay of Fundy appears.
Wow.
Time to explore...
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