Over the past few days we have traveled across the southern
desert of California and Arizona. We had already explored some northern and
central Arizona in November (Grand Canyon, Montezuma Well, Phoenix, White Tank Mountains), and
I was a bit curious to see what the landscape to the south would be like. Arizona,
is rich in natural wonders, everywhere we go. We traveled south from Palm
Springs along the Salton Sea, continuing until the road meets the I8 at El
Centro, where we spent the night. The
next morning we got up and headed east towards Arizona. Practically the moment we
crossed the state line we stopped at the Yuma Visitor Info Center (visitor
centers are always a mecca of helpful info about fun/interesting things to do
and are often our first stop as we move from one state to another) and happened
upon the local farmers market. We took the opportunity to buy some fresh
veggies (love farmer’s markets but we haven’t hit up any lately), grab lunch
and play on the grass in the courtyard of the museum. Wow, I didn't realize how
much I missed grass and greenery until that moment!
The I8 east from El Centro (CA) runs through some
interesting country. It’s a pretty straight road, but the hills to either side
of the road have all sorts of interesting shapes and the vegetation changes
from barren desert to scrub desert, to an area of shifting sands known as the
Imperial Dunes (which had many RV’s stopped and lots of tracks to show that
this is a big area for the off-road enthusiasts) back to scrub desert and then,
finally to the saguaro desert which we first encountered near Phoenix (which
incidentally was only a short ways north at this point).
It’s truly beautiful country, in its own way. The open landscape
of the desert valleys always seems to have low mountain peaks in the distance,
providing contrast. And the sunsets are
spectacular, as we were to find out shortly after we pulled into
Picacho Peak State Park. The sky lit up with oranges and reds as the sun went down just off
the tip of the peak to the west of us, and turning the other direction a nearly
full moon rose above the distant mountains. So pretty. The park is named for
the uniquely shaped hill/mountain which rises out of the otherwise relatively flat
plain. Picacho Peak and the surrounding lower hills are the remnants of ancient
lavaflows and so have an angular, bumpy look about them that is different from
the farther off mountains. The campground sits just at the base of this hill,
surrounded by saguaro desert.
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Watching the hikers ascend the trail to the top of the peak |
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View to the north |
After working on school in the morning, we took
the afternoon to hike some of the trails of the park. A short uphill trail took
us to a small cave and nice overlook which provided excellent views of the
surrounding area. We then stopped at the small playground so the kids could
burn off energy before another hike (does that sound counter intuitive, or
what!). A slightly longer (0.7 mile) Calloway trail took us up to the saddle
between the main peak and a smaller peak to the east. The uphill climb gave us
great views and a different perspective of the peak. The peak is tall enough
that by mid-afternoon we were in shadow as we climbed. There is a trail that
leads to the top of the peak, but we figured it was a bit too strenuous for the
kids (I bet the view is amazing from up there, though). It was interesting to watch
the hikers on the other trail climbing up and up until they were the size of
ants as we ascended our own. On our own
trail, we climbed up rough stairs, over rocks, past a variety of cactus, and
desert plants, up to a lookout point with a bench.
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View from the lookout, facing southeast |
I had expected this point to
show us a grand vista of the desert or of the Peak, but nope, it faced out onto
the Interstate, the small community of Picacho, and the farmland &
mountains in the distance. Not what I was expecting, but interesting all the
same, in that it provided a reminder that people might be just over the hill in
an area that otherwise looks quite empty. The kids both decided to be tour
guides on the way back down the trail to introduce Mom & Dad to the desert
splendor. It was quite cute. They took
their job very seriously, and I was impressed to see that some of the
information about cactus and the desert landscape & animals had sunk in
(although Morgan still gets way too close to the cactus for my comfort – you think
he would have learned!).
The next day we said goodbye to the saguaros and entered
into farmland areas (many of which looked like they had succumbed to drought),
and a scrubbier landscape. Our driving day was quite short as our next destination
was only 1.5 hours away and we arrived at the
Kartchner Caverns State Park
before lunch time. Kartchner Caverns are
an amazing set of caves that were discovered less than 40 years ago and has
only been a state park since the 90’s. Two amateur cavers discovered these
caves, explored and mapped them, and kept them a secret for many years before
negotiations with Arizona State created a new state park in order to preserve
this amazing natural site. It’s interesting that those involved determined that
the best way to protect the caves from vandalism and destruction was to make
them public in such a way that the government could monitor and protect them.
The whole story of the caves and their becoming a state park is quite
interesting. Basically the hills are full of fractured limestone and a wash
runs right past and through the (rather unassuming) hill where the caves are,
providing a relatively constant supply of underground water to the area. Over
the course of 80 000 years or so the water dissolved away the limestone and
hollowed out the hill. The dripping, running, and pooling water left (and still
leaves) behind calcium (and other mineral) deposits which create fantastic
shapes on the walls, ceiling, and floor of the cave. I so wish I had pictures to show, but cameras
are not allowed inside the cave at all (as well as a long list of other
things). The cave environment is much
warmer than the surrounding countryside and much more humid too. Every effort is taken to preserve the unique
climate in the cave, and that includes reducing the contamination from people
entering this environment. It is nearly impossible to prevent people from
shedding (you name it), but the staff does their best to educate the visitors
about why it’s so important to Not Touch!
There are two different tours you can go on at the Caverns.
One takes you into the big cavern (which was where the caves were originally
discovered) where a bat colony resides during the summer months (tours are only
when the bats aren't there in order to not disturb the colony). The other leads
you into the Rotunda/ Throne Room (which we took). Lily was quite concerned
about going underground, but we encouraged her and let her know we would all be
together in a group. The beginning of
this tour takes you through two airlocked doors, past a misting system (which
works to dampen the people and keep all of the lint/hair/skin/etc. stuck to us
rather than floating around the cave feeding the bacteria), and then one more
door into the cave proper. Wow. Just wow.
In the space of 90 minutes I saw and learned so much about the fantastic
shapes that water and minerals can make.
Stalactites, stalagmites, soda straws, shields, bacon, ribbons, flowing
walls, and massive columns of minerals dazzled my eyes. All formed by water over thousands and
thousands of years. The caves are dimly,
and selectively lit to preserve the environment (light is bad inside a cave)
and to highlight the formations. After
seeing all of it, I can completely understand why keeping contamination to a
minimum is so important. What took Mother Nature so long to create can be
destroyed in only a few days after a careless touch of a hand.
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The unassuming hill that holds the amazing caves |
Lily was rather scared at first, but Bob & I took turns
picking her up and pointing out all the amazing things right in front of her
and she settled enough to even enjoy pointing out things herself (It’s not
unusual for younger children to be afraid in the caves). Morgan, on the other
hand, had listened to the guides warnings about not touching and kept pretty
quiet for the length of the tour. This is quite difficult for my usually bouncy
boy, and I was very proud of him. The moment we were back out of the cave into
the bright sunlight, the kids both went bouncing and frolicking around like
little puppies, letting off the energy they had stored up while
underground. After our tour we watched
the movie and went through the displays at the visitor center (backwards from
the way most people do it, but I think having the tour and then getting the
additional information really brought home some of the things we had learned
during the tour), and then settled ourselves into the campground for the
night. The next day we would say goodbye
to Arizona and all it's amazing natural wonders.